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Vintage Jean Varon "Elizabethan" Printed Full Length Dress 1970s

Vintage Jean Varon "Elizabethan" Printed Full Length Dress 1970s

Product Code JV01
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Product Details

John Bates at his absolute best! A dress which comprises all that was iconic of its time and which continues to amaze to this day. The attention to detail and show stopping silouette and print makes this a true design classic and a seriously collectible piece.

Detail: Full length dress with wide pleats from above bust-line, continuing throughout back seam,  creates the beautiful and luxurious silouette. Sleeve detail includes pleated shoulder and wonderful cut-out panels, which add another dimension to the abstract print, and the cuff is a ribbon which ties as a bow to custom fit. Wonderful multi frill collar (Elizabethan inspired) with 5 button bib-front, adds to the drama and adds another great attention to detail. Finally, the whole piece is adorned in a beautiful abstract, leaf print in an autumn colour palette.

Period: Early 1970s

Condition: Excellent/Mint Vintage Condition Guide

Sizing: Small: Shoulder seam to seam 13 (intentionally narrow), Bust 32,  Waist free, Length 59 Size Conversion Chart

Colour: The abstract leaf print includes a burgundy wine colour and various shades of olive and bottle greens.

Fabric: 100% satin

Origin: Made in England

Care: Dry Clean

Styling tip: This dress is so iconic, it wouldn’t look out of place in the V & A! A dress this amazing needs the right occasion and will only require a great heel and a burgundy lipstick!

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John Bates is possibly one of the greatest forgotten talents of the 1960s and 1970s. With no formal training, he took an apprenticeship at London couturier Herbert Sidon in the late 1950s. He was asked to start the Jean Varon label in 1960. “I called it Jean Varon because at the time an English name like John Bates meant nothing, you had to appear to be French. Jean is French for John and Varon because there was no ‘V’ in the rag trade book. Jean Varon made a good graphic image’”(John Bates quoted in ‘Boutique’ by Marnie Fogg).

As far as is known, all Jean Varon labeled garments were designed by Bates. Early garments are innovative with space-age fabrics, see-through panels, cut-out holes and matching accessories right down to the tights. As an aside, Bates is also sometimes credited with the ‘invention’ of the mini-skirt. He popularised trousers for women and encouraged the first ‘underwear as outerwear’ style, through precision cutting and the use of lace and mesh. An example of this work won him the ‘Dress of The Year’ title in 1965.

His reputation earned him the ultimate commission; designing a wardrobe of outfits for the second half of the first Emma Peel season on The Avengers in 1965-66. The contrast from Bates’ first appearance as designer is breathtaking; his bold op-art motifs, mini-skirts, trousers and feminine eveningwear injected glamour and youth into the character. Contrary to popular belief, Bates was only on board for half a season and took no further part in The Avengers. It is a connection that he continues to be most famous for. His designs were also manufactured for sale across the country; the first time that a woman could watch a TV character one evening, and own the clothes by the next.

In the later 1960s and 1970s, Bates continued to innovate but the garments moved towards a softer, feminine look. Bates concurrently designed for an own-name label, which was more avant garde and innovative. He was still designing for Varon throughout the 70s, but at some point in the late 1970s/early 1980s, his own label fizzled out into bankruptcy and he decided to leave the mainstream fashion business. He is now working as an artist and living in Wales. 

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