Detail: Remarkable and Iconic vintage Issey Miyake micro pleated black sculpted dress from his, Reverse Pleats collection 1989. This is an early example of the reverse pleating technique he originated in the late 1980s, and recently featured in the exhibition "Future Beauty - 30 Years of Japanese Fashion" at the Barbican here in London.
This example uses vertical micro reversed pleated fabric with horizontal creases on both the body and sleeves; these creases are used to create heavy upward folds, a technique that Miyake later adapted for his Lantern collection in 1995. These upward folds can be manipulated and sculpted to create a more avantgarde silhouette. The shoulder and neckline detail is extraordinary! An off centre neckline unravels into asymmetically engineered abstract shapes, that conclude with various twisted peaks. Collectable and very rare.
Born in 1938, Issey Miyake witnessed and survived the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima in 1945. Upon graduating in graphic design in 1964, he worked in Paris and New York before returning to Tokyo to open his own design studio in 1970. Towards the end of the 1980s, Miyake started to experiment with fabric pleating techniques that allowed for ease of movement, as well as ease of care. Garments were produced and then heat sealed in a press. In 1999, Miyake transferred the design of his collections to Naoki Takizawa, so that he could concentrate on full-time research projects. As of 2012, he is one of the co-Directors of “21 21 Design Sight”, Japan’s first design museum.
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