Detail: Vintage John Galliano edwardian inspired woven check shirt / blouse in black and various shades of grey from his SS1987 collection - London label, so pre Givenchy and Dior in Paris. From 1993 Galliano's brand was produced in "Paris", so any piece with the "London Made In Britain" label in excellent condition, is now considered extremely rare and obviously very collectable. During his London days, Galliano produced limited runs per style.
Intricate and cleverly tailored, this early and very collectable piece illustrates perfectly the genius of Galliano's talents.
The tailoring of classic raglan sleeves (1850s) have been incorporated into a very complex curved construction. When worn, the sleeves twist and fold softly to the outer edge of the arm. Such innovative and intricate pattern cutting is rarely seen these day! The front construction is equally impressive, with curved seams above the bust line which join the with the inner sleeve seam. The architecture of this piece is really quite extraordinary!
Once Galliano had graduated from City and East London College, he enrolled at Central Saint Martins, where he made a remarkable impact. His graduation collection, titled ‘Les Incroyables’, made brilliant by his romantic flair and diligence, received huge approval. Indeed, his whole line was hastily snapped up and put into the window of Browns boutique. Galliano left Central Saint Martins in 1983 with a first class degree and a healthy stockpile of critical acclaim. In 1984, Galliano unleashed his own label. More critical approval followed. His daring reinvention of romantic themes and delicate, superbly tailored garments were his trademarks.
In 1987 he received the ‘British Designer of the Year’ award. However, critical success was not matched by major financial success. He lost backers and did not have enough money to show for several seasons. In frustration, he quit London for Paris in the early 1990’s. This was not an immediate solution. Several times Galliano was almost forced to declare bankruptcy. This was made all the more bitter by the fact that, while he struggled for money, his critical praise continued unabated. Fortunately, the admiration of the fashion community allowed him to continue. Fashion editors and critics were always busy trying to get work for Galliano, and models, like Kate Moss, worked for him out of friendship rather than money.
In 1995 Galliano finally got the break he so richly deserved: he became the first English man to head a French couture house, when he was put in charge of Givenchy. His knack for taking themes and styles, often Latin or romantic, from the past, and somehow making them contemporary and edgy, is astonishing. Perhaps just as remarkable is the perseverance and conviction of the man. He has managed to keep his talent undiluted through difficult times and emerge with glory and success.
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